Papers

Country-level analysis of the relationships between sustainability and the textile-clothing-leather-footwear industries

Fahimeh Khatami1, Francesca Romana Rinaldi1, Carlo Salvato1, Alberto Ferraris2,3

(1) Department of Management and Technology, DIRB Research Centre, Bocconi University

(2) Department of Management, University of Torino

(3) Mediterranean Institute for Management Science, School of Business, University of Nicosia

Abstract:

The current study aims to investigate the relationships between sustainability and the textile-clothing-leather-footwear (TCLF) industries in four countries, France, Germany, Italy, and Spain. The quantitative approach involved using the linear regression model for data from 2010 to 2020 related to three independent variables of TCLF configurations and six dependent variables of sustainability.

Our findings show significant positive relationships between the trade balance values of agricultural raw materials (TB of ARM), footwear (TB of FOOT), and textiles and clothing (TB of TEXT), which were recognized as the key variables of the TCLF industries with overall sustainability and an emerging circular economy in the study areas. Among the four countries, the strongest correlations between TCLF industries and sustainability belonged to Italy.

The novelty of this research lies in identifying the relevant variables from the World Integrated Trade Solution (WITS) and Eurostat databases to evaluate the TCLF industries-sustainability relationships at the country level.

Measuring Sustainability and Circularity: A Systematic Literature Review

Fahimen Khatami, Francesca Romana Rinaldi and Carlo Salvato

Department of Management and Technology, DIRB Research Centre, Bocconi University

Abstract:

The transition from the linear to circular economy starts from the strategic objectives that organizations set. The Performance Indicators are concrete tools to measure the transition and the performance. Based on this, an alternative future for the fashion sector under sustainable development and circularity is crucial for supporting the environment.

By embracing these potentials, the fashion sector can not only survive but thrive in the future. Current study aims to propose a framework based on performance indicators, drawn from existing literature, synthesizing their role in promoting sustainability and circularity at urban level. The review process involved examining relevant published papers and reports during 2003-2023 in addition to conducting content analysis. A team of experts then validated the indicators, conceptualized them, and presented a framework based on this validation.

After receiving positive feedback, the framework was constructed with three core themes: supply chain, social, and environmental dimensions. The presented framework, praised for its inclusivity and comprehensiveness and developed as a foundation for real-time guidelines for further research, serves as a tool to support local governments in the fashion, luxury, and design industry.

CUT THROUGH THE GREENWASHING
STRATEGIES FOR AUTHENTIC SUSTAINABILITY IN FASHION

Francesca Romana Rinaldi, Chiara Piancatelli, Fahimen Khatami

Department of Management and Technology, DIRB Research Centre, Bocconi University

Abstract:

Perceived greenwashing refers to consumers’ ability to identify deceptive green marketing practices in product advertisements. This study explores how perceived greenwashing impacts consumers’ willingness to pay for fashion products.

Using a qualitative approach and cross-case analysis, we evaluated data from approximately 2,500 Gen Z and Millennial respondents in 2023, including both Italians and expats living in Italy.

Our findings reveal that consumers’ perception of greenwashing significantly influences their behavior and willingness to pay. To address this, we propose a managerial tool to assist brands in crafting credible sustainability claims, mitigating greenwashing risks, and reinforcing authentic sustainability messages.

A LITERATURE REVIEW OF SEMANTIC WEB TECHNOLOGIES
FOR LIFE CYCLE ASSESSMENT IN FASHION INDUSTRIES

Elisabetta Rocchetti, Stefano Montanelli

Department of Computer Science, Università degli Studi di Milano

Abstract:

The fashion industry have been one of the major source of pollution in the last years with great impact on both environmental and societal aspects [1]–[4]. Tracking sustainability metrics has gained more and more importance: governments, institutions and customers have expressed discontent towards these unsustainable practices, and the need of adequate tools and solutions to these issues has arisen.

In this paper, we present a literature review on solutions involving Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) and semantic web technologies with the aim to discuss their possible applicability to the fashion industry. Several approaches have been considered and evidences suggest that the employment of semantic web solutions in LCA enable (1) a more robust representation of materials and products life cycle, and (2) a powerful mean

for traceability, which is an essential factor in sustainability assessments. A further contribution of this paper is about the possible use of semantic web solutions in the framework of MUSA-Next, a web application that has being developed in MUSA Spoke 5 (Multilayered Urban Sustainability Action), a NRRP project funded by the EU - NextGenerationEU.

What is Luxury?
A Phenomenological Approach

Claudio Rozzoni

Department of Department of Cultural Heritage and Environment, University of Milan

Abstract:

In my paper, I aim to present a philosophical-phenomenological approach to the concept of luxury. The goal is to identify its essential characteristics. On the one hand, I will distinguish it from other related concepts that cannot be confused with it. On the other hand, I will explore other key concepts that must necessarily be introduced to characterize luxury. This analysis aims to reveal that luxury is not just limited to the spheres of economics and fashion, but its unique and peculiar nature also holds significant existential value for human experience.

In recent years, Wiesing (2018; 2019; 2021) has made a valuable contribution to the phenomenology of luxury. My paper will explicitly engage with Wiesing’s work to present and critically discuss his major thesis about the nature of luxury. According to him, the concept of “luxury” must be associated with the notion of a “superfluous and unnecessary effort.” In his view, something can only be considered luxury if it is “deemed […] to be irrational, inappropriate, excessive and, therefore, unreasonable in the effort it involves”.

Against this background, my goal will be instead to advocate for a notion of luxury which––beyond Kant, as Husserl understood in his way––can be construed as beautiful techne. Luxury must be enjoyed, but not in an irrational manner in the sense of a whim that opposes the norm, but rather in a manner of use that is elevated to the best possible aesthetic feeling (Gefühl). Clearly, as we will see, such a possibility also implies a danger for luxury to overcome a threshold beyond which it can undergo a qualitative transformation, resulting in trash or kitsch.

Finaziato dall'Unione Europea Ministero dell'Università e della Ricerca Italia Domani Musa
Missione 4 - Istruzione e ricerca